Myths and Truths About Retinoic Acid

Is there much talk about compounds today? discovered in recent years? to reduce wrinkles and, in general, make the skin of the woman more beautiful. But it is true that few stand out as retinoic acid, considered a powerful weapon in combating facial aging.

According to Sara Bragança, a postgraduate doctor in Dermatology and a member of the Brazilian Society of Aesthetic Medicine, retinoic acid, also known as acidic vitamin A or tretinoin, is one of the assets that has the most studies on its effectiveness in skin rejuvenation. "With it, the skin is smoother, firmer and with less spots and wrinkles", highlights.

The doctor explains that retinoic acid is widely used in products and treatments depigmenting, stretch marks, acne and antiaging, which seek to act in cell renewal. "Exactly because it has this renewing action, besides stimulating the formation of collagen, rearranging the elastic fibers damaged by sun exposure and improving the blood supply to the skin," he says.

Despite all the success, there are still many questions and even myths surrounding the use of retinoic acid products. A very striking question, for example, is the possibility that the treatment leaves the skin of the face red and more dry? which is why some people give up on it (even because they think this may be an allergic reaction).

But beyond this, it is important that further questions about retinoic acid be clarified. Check below for answers to the most common questions regarding this asset.

1. Do retinoic acid, retinaldehyde and retinol mean the same thing?

Sara Bragança explains that retinaldehyde and retinol are actually derived from retinoic acid. Exactly for this reason a lot of doubt arises regarding these different names.

Retinaldehyde is the direct precursor of retinoic acid, ie when applied to the skin, it becomes retinoic acid. Is it usually more tolerated and not cause so much irritation ?, explains the doctor.

Retinol is also a precursor to retinoic acid, as Sara points out, but it should first be converted to retinaldehyde and then retinoic acid by skin enzymes. "It also has excellent tolerability and good clinical efficacy," he adds.

2. Is getting red skin after using retinoic acid products a sign of allergy?

“My dermatologist prescribed me some time ago a retinoic acid-based anti-aging cream. I started using it, but soon noticed that my skin became red and more dry. So I thought about stopping treatment immediately ?, says Marina Carneiro, 38, a saleswoman.

Reports like Marina's point out that there is still a lot of doubt about retinoic acid products: the benefits they offer, the right way to use them, the side effects, the contraindications, etc.

It is noteworthy that the sensitivity of the skin does not always mean allergy to retinoic acid, since it is, in a way, even normal to dryness, redness and peeling when the person starts using the product? This should cease after some time of treatment. Most of the time, the guidance is to follow with use, but of course the dermatologist should always be consulted before this decision.

Sara Bragança points out that there are soothing products that help soften the reactions of aesthetic treatments. "In addition, irritation can be relieved by applying thermal water and avoiding products containing alcohol in its composition, such as tonic lotions," he says.

3. Can everyone use retinoic acid products?

This is a very common doubt as most people, at a certain stage of life, seek the many benefits that the active can offer, such as firmer, smoother and blemish-free skin.

Sara Bragança explains that oily or acne skin and scars better tolerate retinoic acid. "The more sensitive skin, or prone to dryness, better tolerate retinaldehyde and retinol," he says.

The professional emphasizes that retinoic acid and its derivatives should not be used by children under 12 years old, people who are hypersensitive to components, pregnant or during breastfeeding. "Rosacea patients should also avoid, because retinoids stimulate the proliferation of vessels and may worsen the redness," he adds.

4. During treatment with retinoic acid can the person sunbathe using sunscreen?

Dermatologist Sara Bragança explains that women undergoing retinoic acid treatment should avoid sun exposure altogether."It is a photosensitizing substance because it makes the skin thinner and sensitive, not tolerating sun exposure," he says.

5. Should retinoic acid products be used daily?

Firstly, it is important to highlight that products containing retinoic acid and its derivatives should be used exclusively at night, "with a very thin layer, avoiding the neck and near the eyes", as explained by dermatologist Sara.

"In the morning, the product should be removed by cleaning with soap and water, and then need to apply the sunscreen with high protection factor (preferably SPF greater than or equal to 50)," adds the doctor.

Sara also points out that patients who have never used retinoids or have sensitive skin should use the product every other night or even twice a week to achieve good results with less chance of irritation. "On nights when the product is not used, creams with other principles such as tensors, moisturizers and vitamins can be applied," he says.

6. Who uses retinoic acid products can no longer shave the fluff?

A woman following retinoic acid treatment may even be able to shave her fluff again. But, as Sara Bragança explains, those who usually shave with wax should discontinue the use of acids seven days before the skin will be too thin.

7. How can I purchase retinoic acid products?

Should a dermatologist prescribe and monitor treatment that includes retinoic acid? which is considered a medicine. In the case of retinol and retinaldehyde, the stringency is lower as they are classified as cosmeceuticals. However, referral and professional follow-up are still indicated.

So if you're interested in getting the benefits retinoic acid products can offer, talk to your dermatologist about the possibility. The professional will surely give you all the information you need to make the treatment a success!

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