Most women who have curly hair may have heard of Low Poo and No Poo, techniques especially suited for shampooing. But in general, many people still have doubts about the subject and some people are totally unaware of the proposal.
No poo is a hair-washing technique that does not use shampoo; Low poo, on the other hand, uses it moderately and with soft formulations and keeps the hair hydrated with the conditioner and finisher.
This is because fans of the movement believe that in this way, during the shampooing of the hair, the natural lipid protection of the scalp and hair along with the accumulated dirt will not be removed.
How did the technique come up and who is it for?
The technique began to be widely used primarily by the Americans and was widely disseminated through the book "Curly Girl" written by Lorraine Massey.
The indication of the technique especially for curly hair is due to the fact that they are generally more dry and fragile. So would the removal of the natural lipid barrier cause more damage than treatment as other products? such as conditioner, masks, among others? nor could they effectively replenish this natural lipid content.
In the case of straight, thin and coarse hair, the oil produced at the root is quickly in the full length of the hair fiber, so the consideration is that in these hair, the shampoo would not do so much harm, because the conditioner could replace the hair. tallow removed during washing.
The main one is guilty? By the condemnation of shampoos is sodium lauryl ether sulfate, present in virtually all products, and which cleans the strands removing dirt and grease. For the adepts of the techniques In poo and low poo, the substance overdries the hair.
The Difference Between No Poo and Low Poo
In the case of No Poo, the use of sulfate is totally cut off. For this, it is also necessary to eliminate the use of all water insoluble products that stick to the hair strands and need sulfate for their removal, such as insoluble silicones, mineral oil, paraffin.
To follow Noo poo, there are two ways to wash your hair: eliminate shampoo and use homemade recipes to clean your hair instead; or buy sanitizing products that do not contain sulfate as a surfactant.
Low Poo, on the other hand, admits the use of "mild" sulfate, but sporadically. The recommendation is to use (only) every 15 days a sulphate product to remove any insoluble substance residue that was used in the wires.
Low poo's routine is especially valid for women who color their yarn with insoluble products, use reconstructive kits or masks that may contain some kind of light petrolatum.
Also, as it is a less 'radical' method, Low poo is suitable for those who cannot completely eliminate shampoo from their routine, such as people living in hot cities or exercising regularly, which increases the greasiness on the scalp.
Released Products and Products You Should Avoid
If you are considering joining the No poo / Low poo technique, know which products to avoid, according to information from the Facebook group Amigas Cacheadas. In the case of shampoos, escape from those containing Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (Sodium Lauryl Sulphate), Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (Lauil Ether Ammonium Sulfate) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate) is indicated.
The technique suggests using products containing Disodium EDTA (disodium EDTA), Citric Acid (citric acid) or plant extracts, and options containing Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Cocamidopropyl Betaine), Dodecyl Polyglucoside (Dodecyl Polyglycoside).
Also according to information from the Amigas Cacheadas group, in the case of conditioners, it is advisable to avoid the use of those containing insoluble silicones.
Hair needs emollients, humectants, proteins and moisturizers, so it is recommended to look for the following substances on product labels:
- Emollients: Shea Butter, Shea Butter, Vegetable Oils, Olive Oil and Chestnut Oils.
- Humectants: Panthenol (D-Panthenol or Pro-Vitamin B5), Glycerin (Glycerin) and Sorbitol (Sorbitol).
- Moisturizers: Aloe vera (Aloe vera or Aloe Vera), Aminoacids.
- Proteins: Wheat (Wheat) and Soy (Soy), Protein.
In this link, products released for No / Low Poo techniques, you can also see a complete list of products released for Low poo and No poo techniques.
Homemade Recipes
The book? Curly Girl? He cites examples of homemade recipes for No Poo or Low poo supporters.Check out two of them:
Brown sugar scrub: One way to deeply cleanse the scalp is by exfoliating it, using a mixture of one tablespoon brown sugar and three conditioner spoons.
Lemon Cleaning: Just mix the juice of a lemon with the amount of conditioner that will be applied to the hair wash. According to the book, lemon is better than any shampoo and still works as a tonic.
Many adepts of the technique also claim to have exchanged the baking soda shampoo used for cleaning and the apple vinegar conditioner to soften the strands.
Professional review for Low Poo and No Poo
But what is the opinion of professionals about the techniques? Are there really any harmful compositions in shampoos and conditioners? Can some substances, in addition to stripping the wires, be harmful to health? Is washing your hair with other products such as vinegar and cornstarch, for example, a positive habit?
Fernanda Casagrande, a member of the Brazilian Society of Dermatology and the American Academy of Dermatology, points out that the systemic absorption of substances used in shampoos is practically nil. Therefore, its potential to cause systemic diseases as well. "Some more sensitive people may only have skin and eye allergies," he says.
? In my opinion, there is no reason to stop using these products. Shampoo is important to clean the scalp, remove excess fat and pollution, explains the doctor.
Below, Fernanda Casagrande also mentions the main substances present in shampoos and that usually cause doubts among people:
Lauril: Present in virtually all shampoos is a substance that cleans the hair removing dirt and grease without altering the structure of the hair. The amount present in shampoos does not confer systemic risks. Is there just a risk of causing irritation ?, says the doctor.
Dyes: Most dyes have metal components and their buildup on the body could be problematic. However, the absorption of these metals in shampoos is zero, so it does not pose any risks. What can only cause allergies? Explains Fernanda.
Parabens: It is a type of preservative present in various cosmetics. "Studies from the journal Journal of Aplied Toxicology have identified parabens as potentially carcinogenic because they have estrogenic properties." which makes them behave like the female hormone. However, the amount to cause disease is very large and shampoos do not cause this risk. The substance, as well as its derivatives, are also present in deodorants ?, highlights the dermatologist.
But it is true that the amount of shampoo used should be moderate as too much can be harmful to the hair. Remember that the shampoo foams only when added water, so its quantity should be as little as possible. Ideally, dilute it with water at the time of use and apply it to very wet hair. But water should never be placed inside the bottle, because, with days, the product can be contaminated ?, explains the dermatologist.
Also according to Fernanda Casagrande, vinegar is not meant to wash hair and should never be placed directly on it. ? What happens is that when applied diluted in water, due to the more acidic pH, it leaves the hair fiber cuticles closed, giving more shine and movement to the hair. The ratio is one tablespoon to one liter of water and can be done once a week. The threads can be washed first with shampoo, conditioner and then this solution is used without rinsing ?, he says.
Regarding concern about the laurel, the National Health Surveillance Agency has issued a technical opinion stating that it is safe. However, it is a fact that shampoos increasingly appear without the substance on the market.
Thus, it is up to each person to choose the products that offer the best results to their hair. But before joining any radical method, it is interesting to talk to a trusted professional about it.
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